RealSeat Bicycle Seats - "The ultimate 'how to' guide to using your RealSeat bike seat!"

RealSeatTM is an original design protected by U.S. patent #6,705,674

Our RealSeat will only clamp onto what is referred to as a 'tapered' seat
post shaft. Tapered seat post shafts (EXP. A) have a main shaft
diameter that tapers down to a diameter of 7/8 of an inch
at the very top end of the shaft. This 7/8" dia. top
end of the seat post is what our seat mount
will clamp onto. If you already have
a 'tapered' shaft then skip
down to section #2.

FACT: 90% of bicycles sold today come standard with a 'tapered' seat
post shaft for use with RealSeatTM. As a general rule, 'integrated'
style seat post shafts (EXP. B) are typically found on high
end bicycles like Cannondale, Trek, Giant, Fuji, etc.

If your seat post shaft resembles (EXP. B), wherein the seat post clamp
is physically attached to the seat post shaft, then you have an
'integrated' seat post shaft and you will have to replace
it with a 'tapered' seat post shaft. READ THE INFO
BELOW FOR REPLACEMENT ADVICE.

IDENTIFYING THE DIAMETER OF YOUR 'INTEGRATED' SEAT POST:
Before you can begin to replace your 'integrated' seat post shaft, you
will need to remove the seat post shaft from your bicycle to determine it's
shaft diameter. The diameter is typically a stamped circled number
located on the seat post shaft below it's minimum insertion
line. If the main diameter is not stamped on seat
post shaft, it will then need to be measured
with a pair of calipers or micrometers
to establish its diameter.

WHAT IS A SEAT POST SHIM:
Since some 'integrated' style seat post shafts have diameters
larger than their 'tapered' cousin, you may have to use a 'seat post shim'
in conjunction with a replacement 'tapered' seat post shaft. For
example, if your seat post shaft is 30.9mm in diameter,
you would need both a 27.2mm seat post shaft
and a 27.2/30.9mm seat post shim.

WHERE TO BUY REPLACEMENT 'TAPERED' SHAFTS:
We have available for purchase a full selection of high quality replacement
'tapered' 7/8" seat post shafts and seat post shims on our PRICING
page -OR- you can visit your friendly local bike shop
to acquire the proper replacement 'tapered'
seat post shaft assembly necessary
to complete the installation
of your RealSeat.

EXP. A

EXP. B

2.) POSITION THE 7/8" BORED HOLE ON RealSeats MOUNT/CLAMP ONTO
THE TOP END OF THE 'TAPERED' 7/8" SEAT POST SHAFT.

Start by locating the 7/8" bored shaft hole on the seats mount/clamp. Then
gently lower the seat until the bored shaft hole is fully seated to
the top end of the 'tapered' 7/8" seat post shaft and
square up the front edge of the seats cover
with the main crossbar of the bike.

Next, locate the (2) hex head cap screws pre-threaded into the
seats mount/clamp and tighten each hex head cap screw 'back & forth'
with a 6mm Allen wrench until they are equally and extensively
tightened. Then check to make certain that the seat post
shaft clamp/quick release (aka.. the bolt that came
with your bike that you loosen and tighten
to raise or lower the seat height) is
also extensively tightened.

To complete the installation, it is necessary to test that BOTH the
seat is secured tightly to the top end of the 'tapered' seat post shaft -AND-
that the seat post shaft clamp/quick release (by itself) is sufficiently
tightened by straddling the rear tire as to grab a hold of the
left & right sides of the seat. Then with reasonable
force, laterally tug on the seat as to
verify that it will not easily
shift when in use.

And last but not least, if the seat should ever shift when in use, you
will then need to isolate whether it is the seats mount slipping on the top
end of the 'tapered' seat post -OR- if it is the seat post shaft (by itself) that
is twisting and re-tighten further. Please consider, more often than
not the culprit of seat shift is due to the seat post shaft clamp
or quick release not being adequately tightened. For
the increased width of our RealSeat will exert
considerably more lateral leverage on a
seat post shaft than what your
old saddle did in use.

1.) REMOVE YOUR OLD SADDLE COMPLETELY TO DETERMINE WHAT
'STYLE' OF SEAT POST SHAFT YOU HAVE ON YOUR BIKE.

LOWERING THE SEAT HEIGHT & SETTING SEAT ANGLE

LEVEL

FORWARD

BACKLEAN

TO PIVOT THE SEATS ANGLE:
Locate the 14mm flange head nut threaded onto the carriage bolt in the
bracket slot on the right side of the seat frame. When tightened,
this nut sets the pitch angle of the seat frame to the
bicycle. To change the seats angle: loosen
nut, re-pivot the seat frame fore
or aft and re-tighten nut.

ADJUSTING THE SEAT COVER TENSION

TO INCREASE TENSION ON COVER:
Locate the 2 webbing straps underneath the cover and pull apart the
hook & loop closure sewn to the 2 webbing straps. Next, secure
seat to apply leverage (SEE ABOVE PHOTO ON RIGHT) to
tighten webbing then re-mate hook & loop together.

TO DECREASE TENSION ON COVER:
Locate the 2 webbing straps underneath the cover and pull apart the
hook & loop closure sewn to the 2 webbing straps. Next, lift
up on the metal buckles to release the webbing
tension then re-mate hook & loop.

Due to minor fabric stretch from use, periodic tightening may be
needed to maintain tension, especially after the seats first use.

If you first can't get cover clean with a wet wash cloth then:
1.) Immerse with water
2.) Apply liquid dish soap
3.) Scrub with bristle brush
4.) Rinse with garden hose
5.) Allow to dry thoroughly

- FOREWORD -
- SEAT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS -
- LOWERING THE SEAT HEIGHT & SETTING SEAT ANGLE -
- ADJUSTING THE SEAT COVER TENSION -
- REMOVING YOUR SEAT COVER -
- USEFUL RIDING TIPS -
- COVER CARE -

TABLE OF CONTENTS

HOW TO

REMOVING YOUR SEAT COVER

TIP #1: Unless you are VERY limber and can easily swing your leg over
the entire seat without falling over, it is a good idea instead
to lean the bicycle to one side wherein you lift your
leg over the main crossbar of your bicycle.

TIP #2: When trying your RealSeat for the first time, begin by straddling
the crossbar on your bicycle, positioning the bike between your
legs. When you are ready to take off, place one foot on a pedal
and with your other foot give yourself a good push-off.
Once you get moving without falling over, begin
to sit and settle down into your amazing
new RealSeat and start enjoying
your bike once again.

'THIGH PRESSURE' CONSIDERATIONS:
Dependent on what style of bicycle you are installing a RealSeat upon
some negligible pressure to the back of your legs may be inevitable. And
while the adjustment of the pitch angle & height will significantly
minimize the pressure, it may not eliminate it completely.
For you may still find it necessary to scoot close to
the front edge of the seat to further diminish
the pressure when pedaling hard.

THE 4 'BASIC' POSITIONS OF SEAT ANGLE

SEAT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

NOTE: The hook & loop in our seat covers is not of an ordinary variety, it
is instead a 'low cycle - high shear' specialty hook & loop. When
the hook & loop is properly mated/mashed together, it
becomes extremely difficult to pull apart. To pull
apart hook & loop, work your fingers in
between the two to separate.

WARNING
Do NOT tighten the 'HEX HEAD CAP SCREWS ON THE SEAT MOUNT'
-OR- the 'SEAT POST CLAMP ON YOUR BIKE' beyond what is
necessary to prevent lateral shifting of your RealSeat.

USEFUL RIDING TIPS

COVER CARE

NOTE: To prolong seat cover life and color, avoid unnecessary
exposure to sunlight and/or the elements.

PHOTO'S COMING SOON!

4) The (leaned back position) is for riders of BMX or cruiser style
bicycles. These styles of bicycles either have there
pedals in a more forward position (versus a
traditional upright bicycle) or they
have extended handlebars.

2) The (dead level position) is intended for those who want to put their
full body weight on their seat. This style of rider typically
will have their seat deliberately lowered and
are all about casual cycling.

1) The (level but leaning slightly forward position) probably works best
for a majority of riders. These style of riders want good leg
extension and the ability to disburse their body
weight comfortably on their seat.

3) The (forward most position) is best suited for 'road bike' riders.
This type of rider is less concerned about putting their
full weight on their seat, but instead wants full
unimpeded extension of their legs.

TO LOWER OR RAISE THE SEAT HEIGHT:
Loosen the bolt/quick release on the seat post clamp (attached to your
bike) and raise or lower your RealSeat and re-tighten.

After you have attached and fully tightened your RealSeat to the tapered
seat post shaft you will more than likely need to lower overall
height of the seat from the pedals or ground.

This is because the vertical height of our RealSeat is ever-so-slightly
taller than the saddle that came with your bike. So, to
compensate for the increased height you will
need to lower the seat an inch
at the very minimum.

SEAT HEIGHT LOWERING TIP
Because all RealSeat seat covers have reflectors sewn to rear of seat
cover you can safely and easily remove the plastic reflector
assembly that is wrapped around seat post shaft
that came with bicycle to lower seat
an additional inch or so.

FOREWORD

While all bicycles have obvious similarities they are all geometrically
different. Therefore, of the thousands of brands and billions of
bicycles manufactured over the past 50 years, it is
impossible for us to pre-set our seat in such
a configuration where it won't require
a couple simple adjustments
to optimize comfort.

In a nut shell, a little common sense combined with either a slight
adjustment made to the seat frames pitch angle (by pivoting it fore or aft a
couple degrees) -OR- the reduction of the seats overall height (by
an inch or two) -OR- to a lesser extent, the modification
of the seat covers tension will greatly effect
it's overall comfort and usability.

And while we do indeed believe our RealSeat is a significant
improvement from the 'crotch crushers' that are traditional saddles, it is
by no means perfect. For if you somehow expect your rear end to
be magically suspended in perpetual weightlessness in
defiance of the principle laws of gravity, then
you are deeply mistaken and should
consider a different seat.

On the other hand, if you happen to be one of the untold millions who
can no longer tolerate a saddle, and you want to ensure that
you discover all of RealSeat's comfort potential, it is
then imperative that you take 10 minutes
and consult this 'easy to read'
page in its entirety.

Next, level the seat with ground to prepare for your very first 'test ride'.

Now that your seat is both lowered and level to ground go ahead and
mount to your bicycle wherein you straddle the main
crossbar of bike with one foot to the ground
and the other foot on a pedal.

Now, with your grounded foot give yourself a strong push-off to get
the bike moving BEFORE you sit in the seat. And, until
such time you have mastered its use, do
NOT take-off while seated.

Upon completion of your first 'test ride' you may find you want to
experiment with the seat by adjusting or fine tuning
the seats angle or height.

For you will be amazed at what just a couple degrees difference in the
seats angle (fore or aft) or the lowering of the seats overall
height from pedals can do to improve comfort.

NOTE
The reason we do not recommend taking off while seated
is because all too often 'first time users' risk the seat unduly shifting
in motion when they are pushing hard on seat just trying to
get the bicycle moving while pedaling. In other
words, the seat is not a leg press!

"Extra WIDE Bicycle Seats for Real Comfort"