| RealSeatTM is an original design protected by U.S. patent #6,705,674 |
| Our RealSeat will only clamp onto what is referred to as a 'tapered' seat post shaft. Tapered seat post shafts (EXP. A) have a main shaft diameter that tapers down to a diameter of 7/8 of an inch at the very top end of the shaft. This 7/8" dia. top end of the seat post is what our seat mount will clamp onto. If you already have a 'tapered' shaft then skip down to section #2. FACT: 90% of bicycles sold today come standard with a 'tapered' seat post shaft for use with RealSeatTM. As a general rule, 'integrated' style seat post shafts (EXP. B) are typically found on high end bicycles like Cannondale, Trek, Giant, Fuji, etc. If your seat post shaft resembles (EXP. B), wherein the seat post clamp is physically attached to the seat post shaft, then you have an 'integrated' seat post shaft and you will have to replace it with a 'tapered' seat post shaft. READ THE INFO BELOW FOR REPLACEMENT ADVICE. IDENTIFYING THE DIAMETER OF YOUR 'INTEGRATED' SEAT POST: Before you can begin to replace your 'integrated' seat post shaft, you will need to remove the seat post shaft from your bicycle to determine it's shaft diameter. The diameter is typically a stamped circled number located on the seat post shaft below it's minimum insertion line. If the main diameter is not stamped on seat post shaft, it will then need to be measured with a pair of calipers or micrometers to establish its diameter. WHAT IS A SEAT POST SHIM: Since some 'integrated' style seat post shafts have diameters larger than their 'tapered' cousin, you may have to use a 'seat post shim' in conjunction with a replacement 'tapered' seat post shaft. For example, if your seat post shaft is 30.9mm in diameter, you would need both a 27.2mm seat post shaft and a 27.2/30.9mm seat post shim. WHERE TO BUY REPLACEMENT 'TAPERED' SHAFTS: We have available for purchase a full selection of high quality replacement 'tapered' 7/8" seat post shafts and seat post shims on our PRICING page -OR- you can visit your friendly local bike shop to acquire the proper replacement 'tapered' seat post shaft assembly necessary to complete the installation of your RealSeat. |
| EXP. A |
| EXP. B |
| 2.) POSITION THE 7/8" BORED HOLE ON RealSeats MOUNT/CLAMP ONTO THE TOP END OF THE 'TAPERED' 7/8" SEAT POST SHAFT. |
| Start by locating the 7/8" bored shaft hole on the seats mount/clamp. Then gently lower the seat until the bored shaft hole is fully seated to the top end of the 'tapered' 7/8" seat post shaft and square up the front edge of the seats cover with the main crossbar of the bike. Next, locate the (2) hex head cap screws pre-threaded into the seats mount/clamp and tighten each hex head cap screw 'back & forth' with a 6mm Allen wrench until they are equally and extensively tightened. Then check to make certain that the seat post shaft clamp/quick release (aka.. the bolt that came with your bike that you loosen and tighten to raise or lower the seat height) is also extensively tightened. To complete the installation, it is necessary to test that BOTH the seat is secured tightly to the top end of the 'tapered' seat post shaft -AND- that the seat post shaft clamp/quick release (by itself) is sufficiently tightened by straddling the rear tire as to grab a hold of the left & right sides of the seat. Then with reasonable force, laterally tug on the seat as to verify that it will not easily shift when in use. And last but not least, if the seat should ever shift when in use, you will then need to isolate whether it is the seats mount slipping on the top end of the 'tapered' seat post -OR- if it is the seat post shaft (by itself) that is twisting and re-tighten further. Please consider, more often than not the culprit of seat shift is due to the seat post shaft clamp or quick release not being adequately tightened. For the increased width of our RealSeat will exert considerably more lateral leverage on a seat post shaft than what your old saddle did in use. |
| 1.) REMOVE YOUR OLD SADDLE COMPLETELY TO DETERMINE WHAT 'STYLE' OF SEAT POST SHAFT YOU HAVE ON YOUR BIKE. |
| LOWERING THE SEAT HEIGHT & SETTING SEAT ANGLE |
| LEVEL |
| FORWARD |
| BACKLEAN |
| TO PIVOT THE SEATS ANGLE: Locate the 14mm flange head nut threaded onto the carriage bolt in the bracket slot on the right side of the seat frame. When tightened, this nut sets the pitch angle of the seat frame to the bicycle. To change the seats angle: loosen nut, re-pivot the seat frame fore or aft and re-tighten nut. |
| ADJUSTING THE SEAT COVER TENSION |
| TO INCREASE TENSION ON COVER: Locate the 2 webbing straps underneath the cover and pull apart the hook & loop closure sewn to the 2 webbing straps. Next, secure seat to apply leverage (SEE ABOVE PHOTO ON RIGHT) to tighten webbing then re-mate hook & loop together. |
| TO DECREASE TENSION ON COVER: Locate the 2 webbing straps underneath the cover and pull apart the hook & loop closure sewn to the 2 webbing straps. Next, lift up on the metal buckles to release the webbing tension then re-mate hook & loop. |
| Due to minor fabric stretch from use, periodic tightening may be needed to maintain tension, especially after the seats first use. |
| If you first can't get cover clean with a wet wash cloth then: 1.) Immerse with water 2.) Apply liquid dish soap 3.) Scrub with bristle brush 4.) Rinse with garden hose 5.) Allow to dry thoroughly |
| - FOREWORD - - SEAT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS - - LOWERING THE SEAT HEIGHT & SETTING SEAT ANGLE - - ADJUSTING THE SEAT COVER TENSION - - REMOVING YOUR SEAT COVER - - USEFUL RIDING TIPS - - COVER CARE - |
| TABLE OF CONTENTS |
| HOW TO |
| REMOVING YOUR SEAT COVER |
| TIP #1: Unless you are VERY limber and can easily swing your leg over the entire seat without falling over, it is a good idea instead to lean the bicycle to one side wherein you lift your leg over the main crossbar of your bicycle. TIP #2: When trying your RealSeat for the first time, begin by straddling the crossbar on your bicycle, positioning the bike between your legs. When you are ready to take off, place one foot on a pedal and with your other foot give yourself a good push-off. Once you get moving without falling over, begin to sit and settle down into your amazing new RealSeat and start enjoying your bike once again. |
| 'THIGH PRESSURE' CONSIDERATIONS: Dependent on what style of bicycle you are installing a RealSeat upon some negligible pressure to the back of your legs may be inevitable. And while the adjustment of the pitch angle & height will significantly minimize the pressure, it may not eliminate it completely. For you may still find it necessary to scoot close to the front edge of the seat to further diminish the pressure when pedaling hard. |
| THE 4 'BASIC' POSITIONS OF SEAT ANGLE |
| SEAT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS |
| NOTE: The hook & loop in our seat covers is not of an ordinary variety, it is instead a 'low cycle - high shear' specialty hook & loop. When the hook & loop is properly mated/mashed together, it becomes extremely difficult to pull apart. To pull apart hook & loop, work your fingers in between the two to separate. |
| WARNING Do NOT tighten the 'HEX HEAD CAP SCREWS ON THE SEAT MOUNT' -OR- the 'SEAT POST CLAMP ON YOUR BIKE' beyond what is necessary to prevent lateral shifting of your RealSeat. |
| USEFUL RIDING TIPS |
| COVER CARE |
| NOTE: To prolong seat cover life and color, avoid unnecessary exposure to sunlight and/or the elements. |
| PHOTO'S COMING SOON! |
| 4) The (leaned back position) is for riders of BMX or cruiser style bicycles. These styles of bicycles either have there pedals in a more forward position (versus a traditional upright bicycle) or they have extended handlebars. |
| 2) The (dead level position) is intended for those who want to put their full body weight on their seat. This style of rider typically will have their seat deliberately lowered and are all about casual cycling. |
| 1) The (level but leaning slightly forward position) probably works best for a majority of riders. These style of riders want good leg extension and the ability to disburse their body weight comfortably on their seat. |
| 3) The (forward most position) is best suited for 'road bike' riders. This type of rider is less concerned about putting their full weight on their seat, but instead wants full unimpeded extension of their legs. |
| TO LOWER OR RAISE THE SEAT HEIGHT: Loosen the bolt/quick release on the seat post clamp (attached to your bike) and raise or lower your RealSeat and re-tighten. |
| After you have attached and fully tightened your RealSeat to the tapered seat post shaft you will more than likely need to lower overall height of the seat from the pedals or ground. This is because the vertical height of our RealSeat is ever-so-slightly taller than the saddle that came with your bike. So, to compensate for the increased height you will need to lower the seat an inch at the very minimum. SEAT HEIGHT LOWERING TIP Because all RealSeat seat covers have reflectors sewn to rear of seat cover you can safely and easily remove the plastic reflector assembly that is wrapped around seat post shaft that came with bicycle to lower seat an additional inch or so. |
| FOREWORD |
| While all bicycles have obvious similarities they are all geometrically different. Therefore, of the thousands of brands and billions of bicycles manufactured over the past 50 years, it is impossible for us to pre-set our seat in such a configuration where it won't require a couple simple adjustments to optimize comfort. In a nut shell, a little common sense combined with either a slight adjustment made to the seat frames pitch angle (by pivoting it fore or aft a couple degrees) -OR- the reduction of the seats overall height (by an inch or two) -OR- to a lesser extent, the modification of the seat covers tension will greatly effect it's overall comfort and usability. And while we do indeed believe our RealSeat is a significant improvement from the 'crotch crushers' that are traditional saddles, it is by no means perfect. For if you somehow expect your rear end to be magically suspended in perpetual weightlessness in defiance of the principle laws of gravity, then you are deeply mistaken and should consider a different seat. On the other hand, if you happen to be one of the untold millions who can no longer tolerate a saddle, and you want to ensure that you discover all of RealSeat's comfort potential, it is then imperative that you take 10 minutes and consult this 'easy to read' page in its entirety. |
| Next, level the seat with ground to prepare for your very first 'test ride'. |
| Now that your seat is both lowered and level to ground go ahead and mount to your bicycle wherein you straddle the main crossbar of bike with one foot to the ground and the other foot on a pedal. Now, with your grounded foot give yourself a strong push-off to get the bike moving BEFORE you sit in the seat. And, until such time you have mastered its use, do NOT take-off while seated. Upon completion of your first 'test ride' you may find you want to experiment with the seat by adjusting or fine tuning the seats angle or height. For you will be amazed at what just a couple degrees difference in the seats angle (fore or aft) or the lowering of the seats overall height from pedals can do to improve comfort. NOTE The reason we do not recommend taking off while seated is because all too often 'first time users' risk the seat unduly shifting in motion when they are pushing hard on seat just trying to get the bicycle moving while pedaling. In other words, the seat is not a leg press! |
| NOTE: The hook & loop in our seat covers is not of an ordinary variety, it is instead a 'low cycle - high shear' specialty hook & loop. When the hook & loop is properly mated/mashed together, it becomes extremely difficult to pull apart. To pull apart hook & loop, work your fingers in between the two to separate. |